I chose this bass as it's pretty much the same as the RBX170 but upgraded with better wood, which is what I want as I'm gutting it soon and putting my own touch on it.
If it was stolen yes I'd buy another but if it was stolen when it's been modded...heavily...then I hound them NIGHT AND DAY!!!
This bass could only be better if it was more expensive...for 140 you get the whole gig...and more!
What a silly question...
The only thing people should know about this bass is that it's soon to be a unique, one off hot rod custom of my design and specification by my hand...and that's what I'm exited about.
Check "Project Yamato" in the Building / Repair section for more details.
I LOVE this bass guitar.
Price: $140.00 Pounds (new)
Where Obtained: www.gak.co.uk
This bass has an Alder body with a Maple neck / Rosewood fingerboard, of which there are 24 medium frets.
It's a 4-stringer so equiped for use in any style, by any person.
This particular bass is passive and has a combination of P-bass and J-Bass pickups for the best of both worlds.
It has 3 controls: Volume, Pan Pot (pickup blend a.k.a.) and a tone control of the frequency cutting type.
Body is western popular: big top horn, small bottom horn and it has perfect balance.
The Bridge is factory standard, like many P and J-basses.
The neck is a bolt on, perfect for fulcrum bends and easier for maintainence as you can just pop it off.
Tuners are standard covered gear type and are very stiff, tune with great precission and stay that way too.
The input jack is a barrel type so it won't come loose on you.
I got mine in Natural Yellow Satin. It doesn't look yellow, that's just the name it looks...natural...which is what I like as paint causes friction and sticks your forearm to the body which is not good for quick slap and tap changes...also means they can't hide crap wood as well.
Very playable. I set it to many different actions from high to low and it does it all...I don't like mine too low though, I like to have some velocity between the string and fret, makes for a punchier tone IMO.
Every fret is easy to access. I play my bass high so I can reach them all but if you have it at ankle height then it's not the bass' fault, it's yours if you cannot reach them...
It is perfectly balanced to it doesn't dive and it's pretty light too (although anything is compared to a 6-string!) so it won't give you any aches unless your not used to it on your shoulder.
In all hoesty...I can't find any flaws.
I started with it's lesser relative: the Yamaha RBX170 about 7 years ago when I started and it carries the same points as that does but slightly better.
Compared to my other basses this plays quite well...very well in fact, I get on with it fine.
It's fit for double thumping lets say that much.
The pickups and electronics on it stock are not that bad.
The pickups ain't bad, not DiMarzio's or Seymours but then, of course not. But they'll get you a huge array of tones, specially with a P-J setup going on.
The Pan Pot is much more useful than the RBX170's dual volume as it makes things more precise and you don't have to knock of two volume controls at once either.
In the sence of "mods I am considering", it's the reason I bought this bass: as a base model (no pun intended) for my own signature sound. So naturally, in time everything is coming off, other than the body and neck of course. ;-)
I'd say it's very durable.
You can put knocks in it easily if your not careful, like with all basses and smashing it on the floor won't do any good either.
I had to put my Yamaha RBX170 away after 7 years of use (on and off when I got better basses) but for my own "signature" model project, I had to return to my roots and so, I bought the one above.
What you can jist is, if the RBX170 laster 7+ years of pounding, this certainly will.
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