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Sanding the neck

I have an old late 70's, early 80's, USA built Peavey with a maple neck with a thick clear finish. I don't know if it's polyurethane or what. When I play fast there's friction and it heats up (small fat hands). I like the satin finishes on other basses. Can I just use fine steel wool to knock off the shine, or do I need to go to the wood? The bass sounds great and I don't want to change it.
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Re: Sanding the neck

1/5/2009 3:29 PM

David Muise (15872) wrote:

I've had good luck speeding up neck backs by using very fine sandpaper. I MIGHT start with 320 grit to clear up dings. 600 is a good starting grit, then a step finer.

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Re: Sanding the neck

1/5/2009 10:58 PM

Kelvin Kydrowski (1324) wrote:

Older Peavey basses used a thick polyurethane finish, and what you're describing - excessive friction and heat present when playing - sounds just like a thick skin poly finish. If the finish feels hard - like the neck was dipped in liquid glass - steel wool will be sufficiant to matte the poly. If it feels soft, you'll have to sand the poly off and play on the priming agent or refinish the neck.



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Re: Sanding the neck

1/7/2009 11:31 AM

Scott Bertrand (81) wrote:

I was hoping to avoid refinishing the neck. If it comes to that though what is a good satin finish product?

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Re: Sanding the neck

1/6/2009 12:21 AM

Dags Still (2888) wrote:

Scott,

I have an early Peavey T60 guitar [the twin of the T40 bass]and it is definitely polyurethene finish on the neck.

I think the suggestion made earlier of sanding with ever smoother papers would be right.

A memory that might help:

I know of a lady guitarist with small hands who sanded her [cheap & aged] classical guitar neck down simply because it was as fat as an oak tree, and it finished up [her words] "as smooth as a babies bottom" and like a babies bottom she'd rub a liberal sprinkling of Johnson's baby talc on her left hand before she started playing. The neck of that guitar was always glassy smooth. Reason I mention this stange thing is because it honestly was a slippery neck. "Slippery" is the best word I can think of to describe it. Perhaps with such regular use of talc on her hand, some got bedded into the wood of the neck, but that's hard to imagine. I tried it myself and it was the smoothest I have ever tried, and a dream to play.

The place always smelt like a nursery when she finished her lesson. lol. I guess any talc would do just as well.

Try some on your hand to ease the friction between hand and neck anyway. Expect a small dusty mess.

dags




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Re: Sanding the neck

1/7/2009 11:35 AM

Scott Bertrand (81) wrote:

Mine is a T-20. I never thought of the powder. Now that you mention it, I saw Jeff Beck do that on a Crossroads DVD.

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Re: Sanding the neck

1/7/2009 11:50 AM

Jean-francois Turbide (3905) wrote:

Scott, just use a green or red scuff pad (the stuff to scrub your pots and pans). This will remove the shine on the neck and then apply a good quality auto wax to the neck and that should do the trick.

cheers.....

J_F



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Re: Sanding the neck

1/7/2009 2:59 PM

Scott Bertrand (81) wrote:

Simple enough - Thank you.

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Re: Sanding the neck

1/8/2009 1:09 PM

Scott Bertrand (81) wrote:

Thanks all for the tips. I tried xtra-fine steel wool (0000) and it helped alot though didn't cure my problem 100%. I do want to mention however that the residual metal particles from the wool accumulated on and around the pup and strings right over the pups. I used my shop vac to get as much off as possible but I'm sure some got down between the pick-guard and pup so I'm definately going to have to raise the hood before I can plug in again. I know a pup is just a magnet and don't know why I didn't think to take precautions to avoid all this. A little eager to get busy I guess. So I hope all this will help others prevent the same screwup. A little tape and an extra 5 minutes - DAMN!!

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Re: Sanding the neck

1/8/2009 6:11 PM

David Muise (15872) wrote:

Oh crap!! I intended to mention that after someone recommended steel wool, but must have gotten distracted. Sorry!